BIO
Piotr Morawski about himself
Since 2001, he was immersed in the high mountains. He has winter expeditions to K2 and Shisha Pangma to his credit, as well as expeditions in the spring and summer seasons in Kyrgyzstan, Nepal, Tibet, and Pakistan. On January 14, 2005, along with Simone Moro, he made the first winter ascent of Shisha Pangma (8027m), and on Annapurna, he attacked the eastern ridge together with Piotr Pustelnik and Peter Hamor, reaching the eastern summit (8010m). He climbed Cho Oyu (8201m) and Broad Peak (8047m). In the summer of 2007, he conquered Nanga Parbat. In 2008, together with Piotr Pustelnik, Darek Załuski, and Peter Hamor, he made the first repeat of the Gabarrou route on the western face of Annapurna, unfortunately missing the summit by 150 meters. In the summer of 2008, together with Peter Hamor he made the first ascent of the Gasherbrum I traverse (8068m) in alpine style and climbed Gasherbrum II (8035m).
Biography
Piotr Morawski was born on December 27, 1976, in Warsaw. His father was a chemistry PhD, and his mother was a photo laboratory technician. Interestingly, Piotr also became a chemistry PhD in his adult life, he took excellent photos, and photography was one of his passions.
Piotr was an only child. He spent all his family vacations with his parents by the Polish sea. He visited Chałupy nine times, at the popular campsite no. 3. In elementary school, influenced by his parents’ passion for cycling, he began training in cycling.
Later, for years, he dreamed of a good racing bike, but never fulfilled that dream. He first went to the mountains in the fourth grade of high school with a classmate. He fell in love with the Tatra Mountains. After graduation, he completed a climbing and Tatra mountaineering course. Climbing became his hobby. He studied chemistry at the Warsaw University of Technology and planned to become a scientist. He graduated with honors and continued his education in doctoral studies.
In 2001, he married Olga.
He earned his PhD in chemistry in March 2005 and began working as an assistant professor at the Warsaw University of Technology. In the same year, Ignacy was born, and Gustaw in 2007.
Piotr ran marathons, participated in adventure rallies. He cycled around Warsaw, regardless of the season or weather conditions. He was interested in photography and gave excellent slide shows.
He liked to write, he published memories from his expeditions in travel and mountain magazines. Since 2008, he had his regular column in the “Góry” magazine. He liked cats.
He died on April 8, 2009, while descending to base camp during an expedition to Dhaulagiri. The snow bridge collapsed under him, despite the rescue action undertaken by the TOPR rescuers who were on the same expedition to the peak, Piotr could not be saved. He remained in the Himalayas forever.
In Warsaw, in the cloisters of the church of St. Anthony of Padua at Senatorska Street 31, there is a plaque commemorating Piotr.
Climbing Biography
In 1995, Piotr completed a rock climbing and Tatra climbing course. From the beginning, he was attracted to winter climbing in the Tatra Mountains. He had many Tatra and Alpine ascents to his credit.
In 2001, together with Marcin Kaczkan, after 4 days from leaving the base, he climbed Chan Tengri (6995m) via the normal route.
In 2002 – Peak Pobeda, five weeks of action in the mountain, Piotr did not reach the summit, he withdrew from about 6400m, Marcin Kaczkan climbed alone.
2002/2003 – winter expedition to K2 (8611m) – north pillar, Japanese route – with Denis Urubko, Piotr ascended to the highest point reached by the expedition at about 7640m, where they set up camp IV.
2003/2004 – winter expedition Shisha Pangma (8027m) – the first repeat of the Spanish route, the first winter ascent of the entire southern face.
2004/2005 – winter expedition Shisha Pangma (8027m) – the first winter ascent via the Slovenian route with Simone Moro.
2005 – Annapurna (8091m) – an attempt to climb via the Bonnington route with Piotr Pustelnik.
2006 – Cho Oyu (8021m) – ascent via the normal route with Peter Hamor and Don Bowie.
2006 – Annapurna (8091m) – an attempt to climb along the seven-kilometer eastern ridge, ending at the eastern summit at an altitude of 8010m with Piotr Pustelnik and Tibetan Lotse. Peter Hamor reached the summit alone.
2006 – Broad Peak (8051m) – solo ascent via the normal route, a day after a rescue operation – bringing down a sick Austrian.
2007 – Nanga Parbat (8126m) – ascent via the Diamir route with Peter Hamor and Dodo Kopold.
2007 – K2 (8611m) – an attempt to reach the top in 24 hours via the Cesen route (ended at an altitude of about 8000m).
2008 – Annapurna (8091m) – the first repeat of the Gabarrou route, without reaching the summit, with Peter Hamor, Piotr Pustelnik, and Darek Załuski.
2008 – Gasherbrum I (8080m) – summit traverse, ascent via the Spanish route with Peter Hamor.
2008 – Gasherbrum II (8035m) – ascent via the normal route with Peter Hamor.
Piotr was posthumously awarded the Knight’s Cross of the Order of Polonia Restituta for outstanding contributions to the development of Polish Himalayan climbing and promoting Poland worldwide.