Three weeks of rest passed since we completed the first part of the Reactivation Triptych. We climbed Ama Dablam for acclimatization, and we did the Czech route on the west face of Annapurna, one of the most beautiful undertakings I had the opportunity to participate in. We were just 150 meters short and a stroke of luck away from reaching the summit…
So it’s time to return to the Reactivation Triptych. We’re already acclimatized. We can immediately start our mountain action. First, Peter Hamor and I will traverse the Gasherbrum Ridge from Gasherbrum I (8068) through Gasherbrum II (8035) to Gasherbrum III (7952). We’ll begin with the American route from the side of Gasherbrum I and descend from the deep pass between Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum III. This traverse has never been completed in its entirety.
We’ll start the Gasherbrum I Ridge with the Spanish route, first and only climbed by the Spanish in 1983. The descent will take place via the normal route through the Japanese couloir (pictured above). We aim to complete the entire traverse in alpine style, taking camping equipment, ropes, some gear, and provisions for 10 days.
© 2024 Piotr Morawski