2008
North-west face, Gabbarrou Route
mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition
The aim of the expedition was the first repeat ascent of the Czech route on the north-west face of Annapurna – the tenth highest peak on earth with a height of 8091 m, as well as the completion of the Crown of the Himalayas by Piotr Pustelnik.
Achievement: Peter Hamor reached the summit solo.
May 2008
Piotr Pustelnik – leader
Peter Hamor
Piotr Morawski
Dariusz Załuski
Dariusz Załuski
8091 m
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Annapurna belongs to the low eight-thousanders but is considered one of the most dangerous mountains in the world. Until 2005, only 103 ascents to the main summit were recorded, with a staggering 56 fatalities.
mBank expeditions have attempted to reach the summit several times. Twice via the Bonington route on the south face in 2004 and 2005. In 2006, the Himalayan Triptych expedition consisting of Piotr Pustelnik, Peter Hamor (Slovakia), Piotr Morawski, and Don Bowie (USA) chose the eastern ridge, which had been conquered only twice before. Peter Hamor reached the main summit on May 21, while Piotr Pustelnik and Piotr Morawski reached the eastern summit (8010 meters above sea level). They turned back to assist a Tibetan climber who had suffered snow blindness.
This year, Piotr Pustelnik decided to return to Annapurna with the same team – Piotr Pustelnik as the leader, Peter Hamor, Piotr Morawski, and Dariusz Załuski, who also served as the filmmaker. The Czech route (also known as the Gabbarrou route) on the northwest face was chosen as the objective. This route was first and only climbed by the Nežerka/Martiš team in 1988 (photos above). With a strong and experienced team and a logical and safe route, the chances of success were increased.
As part of acclimatization for this serious challenge, Ama Dablam was chosen – one of the most characteristic peaks in the Mt. Everest region, with a height of 6812 meters above sea level. The height of this mountain and the relatively easy accessibility to the summit provide an excellent opportunity for acclimatization.
© 2024 Piotr Morawski